Monday 04 April 2005 to Friday 08 April 2005
Route Summary
Mon 4th Milngavie to Balmaha - 18.5 miles. Total 18.5 miles
Tue 5th Balmaha to Inverarnan - 21 miles. Total 39.5 miles
Wed 6th Inverarnan to Br. of Orchy - 20 miles. Total 59.5 miles
Thur 7th Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse - 12.5 miles. Total 72 miles
Fri 8th Kingshouse to Fort William - 23 miles. Grand Total 95 miles
Day 1. Milngavie to Balmaha
After re-crossing the A81 we were on a quiet rural road between Gartness and Drymen. This was very pleasant walking, although there were some steep uphill sections. The West Highland Way skirts past Drymen. However, we had to go into the town to the Tourist Information Office to book accommodation for the night in Balmaha. The Tourist Information Office in Drymen did not open until May! Welcome to Scottish Enterprise!
We did, however, get assistance from a helpful librarian who gave us a contact for a bunkhouse attached to the Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha. She also advised us that we would need to walk to Balmaha via the road since the West Highland Way had been closed between Drymen and Balmaha due to forestry works. This saved us a wee detour back to the path – only to be redirected back to the road. We had a coffee in Drymen before continuing on to Balmaha, where we arrived about 5.45 pm.
Accommodation great. A wee outhouse with 2 bunks (i.e. 4 beds) and an en-suite. Very clean and only Michael and I sharing. After a shower, in for a pint and a good pub meal in the Oak Tree. A friend of Michael’s (Andy, a Bass Player) who lives in Drymen joined us for our meal and we had a good evening. We also met up with a few groups whom we would meet and re-meet over the course of our week – 2 couples from Fife (fit walkers), 2 school teachers from Edinburgh Scott and Robby (young and fit, but not experienced walkers) and 3 primary school teachers from East Kilbride (a bit out of condition and not in the first flush of youth).
Went to bed about 10.30pm and slept very well (fresh air and a bit of exercise is a perfect soporific).
Day 2. Balmaha to Inverarnan.
Felt a bit stiff when I got up but no ill effects from the previous day. We had a great breakfast (The full Scottish) and left the Oak Tree Inn about 9.30am. From here to Rowardennan was 7 miles according to our map. However, the path was not great, maybe it would be better described as a track. Moreover, it wound up and down and in and out. I am convinced that the actual miles walked were much more than 7. Anyway, it took us until 1.00pm before we arrived at Rowardennan. That is only 2 miles per hour!
On the way to Rowardennan we came across a soldier, who was one of 6 or 7 soldiers who were doing the walk. He was waiting to be picked up because he had hurt his hip and was giving up. At Rowardennan we had a plate of soup in the Rowardennan Hotel. The soup was OK but I wouldn’t recommend the Hotel – a bit grubby, no atmosphere and surly staff.
The weather at this point was great; in fact I had to put on my sun hat! We set off again at 1.45pm. We have still 14 miles to cover before we are at Inverarnan. I have a feeling that we will be late in tonight. The path runs up the East side of Loch Lomond. It is heavily wooded, but because the leaves are not yet on the trees we are getting great views over the loch. It is also interesting to see the nature of the landscape changing from lowland to highland.
The going, after the initial mile or so becomes really tortuous. The path is very eroded and drops down to the loch side one minute then climbs up the steep bank the next. At times we thought we had lost the path completely but then would find that it had just deteriorated badly. In addition to the problem with the path, the sky was looking very dark and the rain was beginning to fall.
After, what seemed like a long, 7.25 miles we reached the Inversnaid hotel at about 5.00pm. At the hotel we meet the foursome from Fife and the soldiers (another one of whom was nursing an injury). We got some water and a sandwich at the hotel before setting off again about 5.30pm. We still have 6.5 miles to go and I’m concerned that we may end up still on this very poor path after dark.
The path continues to be very poor. At times we are scrambling, using hands and feet. The weather has also deteriorated – it is pouring. We come across the soldiers. Another 2 of them are chucking it. Eventually, we arrive at Inverarnan about 8.30pm in the dark. The last mile we were using our torch and the rain was torrential. We grab something to eat at Benglass Farm; where there is a very nice pub then we head round to the Drovers, where we are booked in for the night. When we arrive the teachers from E.K. and the couples from Fife greet us enthusiastically. They had been concerned for our safety. They had arrived not too long in front of us. Maybe we shouldn’t have stopped at Benglas Farm. Anyway, we chatted for half an hour, congratulating each other on our heroics during the day.
The Drovers is something else. The place is a tip. However, the beds were clean and, oh bliss! There was a bath. The room was totally run down, however, we were deadbeat and would have slept anywhere. There were lots of places to dry boots and anoraks, etc. After today’s experience we had also decided to pack what we needed during the day into one rucksack and, like the other people we had met, have the bulk of our luggage transported by van.
Today was a long day; I reckon that we only averaged about 2 to 2.5 miles per hour. The views were beautiful but I think it would have been more sensible to have stopped at Inversnaid rather than carry on to Inverarnan. Nevertheless, it was great to finish and there was a sense of satisfaction that the hardest stage was over.
Day 3. Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy.
We left the Drovers, after another full Scottish breakfast, at 9.15 am and walked the half-mile, or so, to the Benglas camp site where we had eaten last night. The rain was pouring down. We left our rucksack to be uplifted and transported to Bridge of Orchy Hotel and started walking about 9.45 am.
Although the weather was bad, it has to be said that the path was much better underfoot and the landscape was more open. Between here and Crianlarich it was very pleasant walking. The only problem was at the occasional stream, which, because of the heavy rain, was in spate. We had to clamber up the steep bank to cross safely at a narrower part of the burn.
It was great walking without the heavily loaded rucksacks but the weather really was terrible. The rain was pouring down. Both of us had soaking feet and my whole upper body was ringing as the water penetrated my anorak.
At one point, before Crianlarich, we were forced off of the path by a herd of very sad, dejected, soaking wet cows. In a perverse way, although we were also soaking, they cheered us up. The poor beasts were huddled against a drystane dyke doing their best to get a little protection from the downpour. (At least we had some sort of choice in the matter). Crianlarich was well off the path and we decided not to go into the village but to carry on.
We entered a forest and walked on good paths through the woods for about 2 miles. I say the paths were good. They were. The pine needles meant that they were springy underfoot. However they climbed steeply then fell steeply and, because of the rain, they were, in places, running like a river.
When we emerged from the woods we crossed the A82, past St Fillan’s Chapel and up to Auchtertyre farm. Here there was a wee shop where we bought bridies and hot tea. There was a wee bothy area where we ate and drank and got a bit dried out. We met the two couples from Fife, who were doing the same as us – grabbing a bite, avoiding the rain and trying to dry out. We also met a couple of young lads who were cycling. They were going to pack in – the water was running out of them!
Anyway, after this welcome break, the weather improved vastly. The scenery also was fabulous between here and Bridge of Orchy. We were walking along a good track, more or less on the level and with beautiful hills all around.
We passed Tyndrum and continued on this very pleasant section until Bridge of Orchy, where we arrived about 5.30pm. Not before meeting some more cows. However. It should be said that these cows left us in peace to continue on our way without having to detour from our path.
The bunkhouse at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel was excellent. Three beds to a room (only Michael and I in our room), good showers, and loads of heat to dry out our boots. After getting changed we had a wonderful meal, a couple of pints, a chat with the Fifers and then bed. Looking forward to tomorrow. It should be a pleasant day as we are only going as far as the Kingshouse Hotel. Touch wood, it should be a restful day.
Day 4. Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse.
Had a good breakfast in the Bridge of Orchy Hotel (Porridge, toast, etc. – we both were feeling stodgy the last few days after the full Scottish). Met Scott and Robbie. Robbie was abandoning and was waiting for a bus. Incidentally we heard that the army group had also given up at Inverarnan – so much for army training!
Anyway, we left the hotel about 9.45 am and we were looking forward to our easy day over the Rannoch Moor. Because my boots were still damp from the day before I have put on two pairs of socks. From Bridge of Orchy the path climbs steeply up through woods, for maybe a mile and a half, before a descent to Inveroran. The views are really beautiful here over Loch Tulla.
There is only the hotel in Inveroran and we walk on past on a deserted rural road before joining an old military road uphill and on to Rannoch Moor. The track is clearly defined and dry underfoot, although these old military roads are very sore on the feet – hard and stony.
The Moor is totally exposed, no shelter whatsoever, so we are hoping that the weather stays reasonably good. No such luck! We were blasted by driving, stinging, horizontal, frozen snow. On the plus side, the snow blizzards came in sporadic showers and, because the snow was frozen, it did not soak us the way yesterday’s rain had.
On the way, we came across a stag that was obviously seriously injured. There was no sign of blood, but we guessed that the animal had broken its neck. It was alive but unable to move. Michael telephoned a ranger using his mobile telephone. However, we were unable to give an accurate position. We found out later from other walkers that the deer had died soon after we left.
I am starting to feel my heel tender. However, after I stop and remove one pair of socks the problem is solved. After about eight and a half miles we start to descend from the moor towards the Kingshouse Hotel. At the foot of the descent we come across the first sight of civilization we have seen since we left Inveroran. A beautiful little cottage situated at the entrance to the “White Corries Ski Tow”.
Although the Moor was desolate, the scenery was very impressive and this has been a very enjoyable day. All the more so, since we arrive at the Kingshouse at 2.30 pm.
We dump our rucksacks in our room and go down to the bar for a pint and a meal and generally enjoy relaxing with no more walking for the day.
Our room is great. We have a picture postcard view of Buachaille Etive Mor.
What a mountain! I must have taken a dozen photographs. It changed constantly with the weather and light conditions. One minute the sun would be on the snow-capped peak and the next the peak would be covered in mist. At other times the mountain was almost invisible because of driving snow. The colour of the mountain seemed to alter as we watched, depending on the way the light was hitting it. What a mountain!
Later, in the afternoon, I had a long, hot bath while Michael went back down to the bar. He then had a bath and we both went back to the bar for the evening. We had a good night, playing pool and chatting to other walkers, including the teachers from East Kilbride, who had walked from Tyndrum.
Went to bed about 11.00 pm. It was snowing outside and we have a long day tomorrow – 23 miles, and including “The Devil’s Staircase.”
Day 5. Kingshouse to Fort William.
I was wakened at 6.00 a.m. The wind was howling. I got up and looked out of the window. White out! I could see only horizontal snow. I could see no sign of Buachaille Etive Mor. It wasn’t looking too clever for our last day, particularly since we would be climbing to the highest point on the route at 1850 feet above sea level. Ah well! Back to bed for a couple of hours and hope for the best.
Up at 8.00 am and the place is white. However, the blizzard has stopped, there are breaks in the snow showers and we can see the mountain again from our window. We also see some deer just outside the hotel. I assume forced down by the poor weather to seek shelter at a lower level. At breakfast we meet a couple of women who have decided to get a taxi from here to Kinlochleven because of the weather forecast.
Nothing daunted, we set off after breakfast. The first 3 miles are relatively flat and we are feeling good after yesterday’s easy day. We then turn northwards away from the A82 trunk road (and Buachaille Etive Mor) to ascend the Devil’s Staircase, a zigzagging upward slog from the Glen to the mountain pass leading to Kinlochleven.
Although this is a steady, steep climb, it does not seem so bad as we had been lead to believe. The weather is very cold and there are still snow showers falling. However, because of the exertions of the climb, the hats and gloves are off. The scenery is also fabulous and as a result we reach the top of the climb before we know it and still feeling comfortable!
We then start a 4 or 5-mile descent into Kinlochleven. At first it is very slippery underfoot because of the snow and ice but as we get lower we enter a forest road where the footing is much better. We pass the Alcan water pipes running down the hill and get into Kinlochleven ready for some lunch. The weather has also improved and the sun is shining. We buy some pasta and eat a picnic lunch beside the Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall. We are feeling really good and are ready for the last 13 miles of our trip.
Then things go a little awry. We followed a yellow arrow sign up out of the Loch Leven valley, steeply on a narrow difficult path from Kinlochleven. We were a little surprised at how steep it was, as the guidebook had not really mentioned it. We were finding it harder going than the Devil’s Staircase! Anyway, after about an hour and a half we realized that we were on the wrong route. We had been following some local walk and had gone some 2 miles North East of the correct route. What a shame. We had been feeling really good but the route that we had taken was extremely steep and it had added at least 2 miles onto our walk, not to mention about 2 hours extra time.
Anyway, we were, at last back on our route and walking along an old military road across the Lairigmor. This road was very sore on the feet – hard and rocky. We also were hit by a couple of showers of frozen, horizontal snow. Right in our faces. It was stinging and we could only progress by holding our gloved hands up to protect our faces. Again, however, the scenery was stunning. Like the Rannoch Moor this part of the walk felt very remote.
However, unlike Rannoch Moor the land seemed fertile. There were grassy slopes and lots of sheep. There were also a couple of ruined crofts. Other than that, no sign of civilization.
We arrived in Fort William about 7.00 pm. My knee is sore, my feet are sore but it feels good to have finished. About 7 miles earlier, Michael had said that he fancied a Chinese meal and I am really up for that. We have a shower, get changed and head out to find a Chinese restaurant. There is only a carry out Chinese restaurant in Fort William but we get into an Indian and have a great meal before heading back to our B&B to flake out.
Mission accomplished.
Comments.
- A great experience all in all.
- 5 days was probably a bit too quick to really enjoy the scenery. Maybe 7 or even 8 days would have been better.
- This was a good time of year to do it, I think. No midges; weather not too bad (could have been better – but, hey, this is Scotland!); we were able to book accommodation each day. In summer this may not have been possible; snow made the scenery particularly spectacular; the route was not overcrowded with people.
- Having our bags transported from Inverarnan was a great idea and I’d recommend this service from the start.
- Day two – Balmaha to Inverarnan was a bit of a struggle. If I was doing it again, I think I would split this and maybe stop at Inversnaid.
- All of the accommodation we used was great. Bunk houses were the ideal and other places were full of character:
· The Beech Tree Inn, Balmaha: A great bunkhouse. £20 a head for bed and breakfast. Very comfortable. Good, friendly atmosphere. Good beer, great dinner and a great, full Scottish breakfast.
· The Drovers, Inverarnan: A tip of a place but oozing with character. Unfortunately, we did not arrive until bedtime so we didn’t eat here or enjoy much of the convivial atmosphere. We know from experience, however that the food is great. £58 for the two of us - bed and breakfast. Don’t expect room service or plush surroundings but the bed was clean, there was a big bath and the full Scottish breakfast was very welcome.
· The Bridge of Orchy Hotel bunkhouse: Brilliant. A modern bunkhouse building. Three beds to a room. Warm and clean. £15 a head for bed and continental breakfast. Great value. Fantastic dinner in the hotel and a very friendly atmosphere. A bit more formal than the Beech Tree Inn but definitely to be recommended.
· The Kingshouse: £71 for both of us, bed and breakfast. Probably somewhere between the Drovers and the Bridge of Orchy hotel in terms of the general atmosphere. Our room had a view that could not have been bettered and there was a bath in the en-suite. The bar had a very relaxed and friendly atmosphere and the continental breakfast was great.
· The Berkley, Fort William: A beautiful, clean, non-smoking, bed and breakfast. En-suite shower, good-sized room and a wonderful breakfast. I would definitely go back and would not hesitate to recommend this place to anyone. £21 per head.
- Scenery to die for, but be prepared for all weather. The changing weather, however, added to the scenery and the walk would not have had the same character if the weather had been predictable.
- It was more challenging than I expected. To really enjoy it I would recommend a bit of training – walking with the boots on for a few weekends beforehand would be enough. We did meet quite a few people who abandoned without completing the walk. Some of them were fit but had been surprised at how difficult it was (day 2 particularly).
- “Footprint” do a great waterproof map in a plastic sleeve. However, we wished that we had brought OS Maps as well. The “Footprint map only covers about 1km either side of the route. We were seeing peaks along the way and we didn’t know what they were.
